By Patricia Baker ; [illustrations by Robert Price].
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Paris and the northern and western parts of France were placed under German rule. Here, as everywhere under Nazi rule, Jewish people were rounded up and deported to concentration and forced labor camps. The Paris fashion houses were to survive the Nazi occupation of Paris thanks to one man: Lucien Lelong, head of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne (the Paris Fashion Syndicate). Many chief designers and Jewish manufacturers had already left Paris at the outbreak of hostilities, and in 1940 the Berlin High Command ordered the closure of the CSCP and the transfer of the fashion houses and designers to Berlin and Vienna.
By 1948, London department stores were selling garments based on Dior’s designs for six British pounds with fifteen coupons. In no time, everything had a New Look label, including furniture, housing, and even a kind of daffodil. American women were also hostile at first to the new length, although it has been suggested that this was because it hid their legs. mHattie Carnegie gives another American American designer Adrian locked version of the style in 1948. Following the horns on American radio with Mrs.
Growth of mass-production garment manufacturing occurs, with styles based on Dior’s designs. First TV westerns appear. A new dance beat—Rhythm and Blues—is emerging. In Britain, clothes rationing largely disappears. Food rationing begins in Britain and in occupied France. Schiaparelli takes her collection to the United States, the last French collection to be shown abroad for five years. Norell and McCardell steal the (fashion) show in New York. The 40s r_4c 9/27/06 3:37 PM Page 62 62 Glossary Adrian (Gilbert Adrian) (1903–59) At first known for his theater and film costumes, dressing such stars as Joan Crawford, Greta Garbo, and Katharine Hepburn, Adrian moved into the haute couture world by opening a salon in 1941 in Beverly Hills.